Lord Stow’s egg tarts and wheat-bread siopao
Egg tarts may look like a smaller version of the traditional egg pie but there are substantial differences between the two. Egg tarts have a flaky crust more similar to puff pastry than the bready crust of egg pie. The custard of egg tarts is more like crème brûlée.
My kids loved the egg tarts from the Portuguese Egg Tart Factory and it was a sad day when the outlet at the Shangri-La Plaza Food Gallery folded up. I am not even sure if the main outlet along Banawe Street in Quezon City is still there. Fortunately, Lord Stow’s Bakery is still in business. We were in the Diliman area last night and bought a box of egg tarts at the Tomas Morato outlet (near the Roces intersection, just beside Zensho Restaurant). The prices have gone up. In the late 1990s, an egg tart cost 25 pesos per. Today, a Lord Stow’s egg tart goes for 33 pesos per.
I know it sounds expensive for something so small and seemingly ordinary. Thing is, it isn’t ordinary. You can get cheaper egg tarts from dimsum carts and counters but the custard will not be the same. Most of the time, the crust of dimsum egg tarts isn’t flaky either.
What would account for the difference? According to Wikipedia, there is Chinese (Hong Kong) style egg tart and there is Portuguese style egg tart. Lord Stow’s egg tarts are Portuguese in origin, a modification of the Pasteis de nata.
Some trivia:
The Portuguese-style egg tarts known in Macao originated from Lord Stow’s Café in Coloane, owned by a Briton named Andrew Stow. Stow modified the recipe of pastel de nata using techniques of making English custard tarts…
In essence, the Portuguese-style egg tart commonly sold in Asia resembles the Hong Kong-style egg tart, except for the fact that it contains a small amount of coconut milk and requires a finishing topping of caramelised sugar.
The topping of caramelized sugar should explain why the custard of Chinese egg tarts, such as those sold in Kowloon House (see photo), are uniformly yellow while Lord Stow’s have a toasted surface. It is also interesting to note that, according to the Lord Stow’s website, no additives nor preservatives are used in making the egg tarts.
So, if you’re craving for a great dessert, or even a quick snack, or if you just want an alternative to the pervasively commercialized donut culture (I tried Krispy Kreme once and couldn’t understand what the big deal was), I suggest Lord Stow’s egg tarts. At room temperature and after chilling overnight in the fridge, they are just scrumptious.
If you decide to drop by Lord Stow’s Bakery, you will notice brown buns being sold in packs of three prominently displayed on top of the glass counters. Wheat-bread siopao that comes with a variety of fillings. I bought the ones with chicken filling and steamed them for breakfast earlier today. Well, they would be a health buff’s delight, for sure. The chicken and black mushroom filling isn’t oily at all. The bread is good. Not as soft nor springy, and not as sweet, as traditional Chinese siopao — but good. Not something I’d crave for after trying once but something I won’t mind enjoying again.
Now, the egg tarts… well, they’re really something to crave for. 
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14 Responses to “Lord Stow’s egg tarts and wheat-bread siopao”
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Portuguese-style egg tarts used to be a staple merienda treat in my grandma’s house. My lolo being Macanese makes it so often since it is abuela’s favorite. Oh, I miss them both.
Home made portuguese egg tarts! What a treat! Oh what I’d give to learn to make the crust.
My grandpa was a good cook, they say it is a usual trait of a Macanese. Sadly, he never taught anyone of his kids how to cook Macanese dishes or Chinese fused with Portuguese dishes. Sayang, sana my mom knew how and she is able to share it with me, tapos siempre share ko rin sayo so everybody happy! hay!
Hay, sayang! I so love fusion cooking pa naman. I think that fusion cooking is really the most creative thing that anyone can do with food.
my earliest memories of egg tart was as a child during trips to hong kong. just love ‘em! in paris, i search for the best flan, the local version a la egg pie.
before i came here in canada my friend bought me a box of egg tart from Lord Stow’s, that egg tarts are really delicious! yum-O! though its expensive but its worth the taste…=p
Hi Connie,
Here’s an egg tart recipe. It uses store-bought dough but I’m posting a link to flaky crust recipe below. The Egg Tart recieves good user reviews.
http://allrecipes.com/Recipe/Portuguese-Custard-Tarts—Pasteis-de-Nata/Detail.aspx
Here’s a recipe for basic flaky crust recipe:
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recipe_views/views/101858
Try it and let us know how you did.
C, thanks for the links. The custard recipe looks easy but I think I’ll hunt for commercial puff pastry. Among the comments, there is one that says roll the puff pastry like a loaf and cut thinly. That, I think, is the right way because if you look at the bottom of the egg tarts, there is a round pattern, much like the cross cut of a tree bark.
i’m a fan of Lord Stow’s egg tarts!
Oh my…pregnant woman alert craving for it right now.
I always go to Lord Stow’s in Binondo for sandwiches. I love their bread and sandiwch fillings!
wow! i want to try the recipe. kaso may iba bang crust alternative?
love ko egg tarts, ok nga lord stow’s!
masarap din ba yung sa breadtalk?
gusto ko malaman contact no. nyo
The macau-style egg tarts are based on a centuries-old Portuguese Recipe. The Portuguese version is healthier then the egg tart and it’s called a NATA. There’s a place in Macau selling these and they are really great. Everytime i’m in Macau I pop by the cafe and have a bunch with my family. For me the portuguese NATA tastes much better. This is the only place you can get in Asia them as far as I know.
The coffeeshop is called CUPPACOFFEE and is in Taipa Island… let me get the card: R. Fernao Mendes Pinto, 104 near a chinese cafe everyone knows called Hei Lin (you can mention that name to the taxi driver).
Barry,
UK