Patis (fermented fish sauce)

In consonance with the 2nd Independent Food Festival & Awards, I present the “Best Patis (fermented fish sauce) Award to BF Patis”. Known as nam pla in Thailand, nuoc mam in Vietnam, nam pa in Laos and ngan-pya-ye in Burma (Myanmar), patis is used for seasoning or as a dipping sauce. Patis making is an important industry in the fishing towns of Navotas and Malabon, both in Metro Manila. Fish is fermented with salt and water in large vats; the strained liquid becomes patis.

The importance of patis in Filipino culture and trade cannot be given more stress than with a law that sets specific standards for a liquid to be considered as patis. Administrative Order No. 325 (1977) defines patis as Òthe clear liquid sauce, straw yellow to amber in color, obtained from the enzymatic fermentation of the mixture of fish and shrimp and common salt and has a strong salty taste with traces of fishy odor.Ó To qualify as patis, the following criteria must be met:

2. Standard of Quality

2.1 Specific Gravity 1.20-1.23

2.2 Total Solids not less than 32%

2.3 Salt Content 20-25% as NaCl

2.4 Protein Content

a) Patis for Domestic Trade

i) Special Patis not less than 8%

ii) Regular Patis not less than 4.5%

b) Patis for Export

i) Special Patis not less than 8%

ii) Regular Patis not less than 4.5%

3. Statement of Substandard Quality

…Any liquid seasoning or flavoring with similar characteristics but whose protein content is less than 2.5% shall not be considered patis and shall not be allowed to be offered for sale under the name ÒPatis Flavor.”

Patis (fermented fish sauce) Does brand matter? In the case of patis, it does. Some patis are so smelly, opening the bottle can make you smirk. The ones with better quality have a more mellow aroma and does not scorch the tongue with the saltiness.

The best patis I have ever tasted was a gift from a former boss. Patis-making was his family’s business in their home province of Bulacan. I received three unmarked and unlabeled long necked bottles one Christmas as all the lawyers and staff in the office did. As soon as I tried it, I went hunting for information as to what label it was sold locally. The feedback I got was that it wasn’t sold locally but exported exclusively. When my boss and I parted ways eventually, I missed his patis so much that I was tempted to take back the job I ditched. I didn’t miss him though; just the patis. I tell you, it was that good.

After that, we tried one brand after another and we’d get disappointed each time. Until, finally, during a fair at the kids’ school, there was this stall selling patis, bagoong, peanut butter, daing na bangus… The labels were unfamiliar and I didn’t pay much attention. Until my 13-year-old daughter’s best friend came sashaying towards me and announcing, “Tita*, if you don’t buy anything, I will be hurt.” With matching pout, imagine. Now, I really like that sassy girl. She never fails to make me laugh. Turned out that all the products in the stall were from her family’s business. I took a second look at the products, chose the ones we needed and paid for them. Of course, she was very happy. But I was probably happier after I opened the bottle of patis at home. Not really as good as the unlabeled patis from my former boss but definitely much, much more superior than any of the local brands in the supermarkets. We’ve been buying patis exclusively from her family since then.

The brand is “BF” and the patis is produced in Lingayen in the province of Pangasinan in Central Luzon. I don’t know if they are sold in retail outlets.

*Tita is the equivalent of aunt and used to address even non-relatives as a sign of respect.

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